Hyaluronic Acid: The Ultimate Moisture Magnet

 

What is Hyaluronic Acid?

hyaluronic acid example photo

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is known for its incredible ability to retain moisture—up to 1,000 times its weight in water! This makes it one of the most effective ingredients for skin hydration. However, not all skincare products list "hyaluronic acid" as an ingredient. Why? Because there are different types of hyaluronic acid, each with unique properties and effects.

This article will explain the classification of hyaluronic acid and how each type benefits the skin.


Sodium Hyaluronate: The Most Commonly Used HA

Before diving into the different types of HA, let’s first look at Sodium Hyaluronate, a widely used form in cosmetics:



INCI NameSodium Hyaluronate
CAS No.9067-32-7
EC No.-
Cosmetic EffectsMoisturizing, Skin Barrier Reinforcement, Improving Elasticity
EWG Skin Deep Score1 (Green Grade, Data: Fair)
effect of hyaluronic aicd

8 Types of Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

There are eight common types of hyaluronic acid used in cosmetics. While all provide hydration, their mechanisms differ based on molecular weight.

Classification by Molecular Weight

Ultra-Low Molecular Weight << Low Molecular Weight < Medium Molecular Weight < High Molecular Weight

Recently, "ultra-low molecular weight" HA has been added to the traditional classification, making four main categories.

The History of Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid was first discovered in 1934 in the eyes of cattle. While it exists throughout the human body, over 50% is found in the skin, particularly in the dermis. The dermis consists of a water-rich matrix, and HA plays a key role in retaining this moisture. However, as we age, HA levels decrease, leading to moisture loss and reduced skin elasticity. This is why HA is essential for maintaining youthful skin.

Benefits of Hyaluronic Acid

Effects Based on Molecular Size

Molecular weight values may vary depending on the manufacturer.

1. High Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid (≥1,500,000 Da)

  • Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

  • Sodium Hyaluronate

2. Medium Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid (1,000,000 - 1,500,000 Da)

  • Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

  • Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

3. Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid (5,000 - 100,000 Da)

  • Potassium Hyaluronate

  • Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

  • Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

4. Ultra-Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid (<5,000 Da)

  • Hyaluronic Acid

    • There are both high and low molecular weight versions of this ingredient, depending on the manufacturer.

    • This form gained popularity due to the effectiveness of low molecular weight HA in skincare.

hyaluronic acid effcet example in model


What is Da (Dalton)?

Da (Dalton) is a unit of molecular mass. One Dalton equals 1.661 × 10⁻²⁴ g, which is the inverse of Avogadro's number. The molecular weight of a molecule in Daltons corresponds numerically to its molecular mass.

The Importance of Molecular Size in Hydration

Hyaluronic acid’s primary function is hydration, but the molecular weight determines how it works within the skin. This is why multi-molecular HA products (e.g., 3-layer or 7-layer HA formulations) have become popular in skincare.

Are There Any Side Effects?

As a cosmetic ingredient, hyaluronic acid has not shown any significant side effects. All eight forms of HA listed above have received EWG Green Grade (1 rating), confirming their safety and effectiveness in hydration.

Conclusion

Hyaluronic acid is a powerhouse ingredient in skincare, offering deep hydration and improving skin elasticity. Choosing the right type of HA based on molecular weight can help achieve optimal skin benefits. Whether it's high molecular weight HA for surface hydration or ultra-low molecular weight HA for deeper penetration, incorporating HA into your skincare routine can significantly enhance moisture retention and overall skin health.


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